The purpose of this post is to celebrate the beauty and freedom of
California, the special connection I have with my son Alex, and the fun that we shared over the weekend.
We had been talking about this for a couple of years. It took lots of planning, lots of self-empathy, and careful execution. My son Alex and I snowboarded and surfed on the same day on Sunday, March 16, 2008. We were expecting snow and rain all weekend. We got both, but were pleasantly surprised…
Everything started with Alex’s Friday arrival at LAX for his spring break vacation with me. His flight arrived a little late ~ 10 PM, after which we were on our way to Big Bear Lakes. Alex slept on the way there, as he was still on central time; we got to our hotel a little before 12:30 AM.
The next morning, Alex noticed a snowboard rental shop across the street from our hotel, so we walked over there for his gear. We got to the mountain shortly after, and realized that the snow was packed and crusty. It can provide some fun, but there’s a high risk of wipe-out (when edges catch on bumps or the board slips out from underneath you). So, on that kind of snow, the safest thing is to go non-stop from start to finish – unless of course you wipe out.
Luckily, a snow storm moved in the area in the afternoon, and dumped enough snow to make it more fun. We woke up to 4 to 6 inches of fresh powder the next morning, along with a clear sunny sky and no wind. It was perfectly beautiful. We were both “stoked” (i.e. feeling joyous, energetic and fulfilled), and celebrated frequently with wild yells and high-fives as we flew past each other on our boards.
Alex was getting his adventurous-play need met by catching air off some jumps. Alex tells me that he was listening to “Cool The Engines” by Boston on his IPod during his first big jump. He was approaching the jump just as the “engines” were warming up at the beginning of the song, and blasted off at the same time that he exploded into the air.
I chose to join in on a few, but also contributed to the memories by taking pictures. It was really fun to follow Alex as he and I took six jumps in a row and nailed the landings on all of them. This is the first time that we’ve been able to jump together one right after another. I had some sad thoughts about my future when I won’t be quite able to keep up with him, but quick self-empathy allowed me to stay in the moments as they presented themselves.
There’s nothing quite like the feeling of fresh snow on a board; it’s almost like gliding on early-morning well-formed right-breaking glassy waves. The sound below the board is like a slowly modulating deep wind blowing through a pine forest, and the experience is almost like flying. When I visualize the feeling, it’s like being high above the clouds and playing on that hilly puffy terrain.
“Ahhhhhhhhhh” gets much closer to describing it; the plain-old-thoughts of the experience are boring in comparison.
So, it was a little painful that we chose to leave the mountain before noon to head to the beach. Alex and I openly talked about our feelings in leaving the mountain. We were sad to leave, but remembered that the bigger adventure had surfing in it. I found myself needing and giving myself empathy as I struggled with the snow chains, both to put them on and take them off (I was feeling anxious because I was wanting safety for us as my Mustang isn’t designed for snow, and feeling some frustration because I was wanting more ease in getting the chains on and off the tires).
On the way out, we stopped by a fast-food restaurant for a “quick” bite, except it wasn’t quick. At first, I found myself thinking of the “workers” as “incompetent, lazy and not-so-bright”. Then, I realized what I was doing to myself, looked inside feeling that I was uptight because I was wanting nourishment, and feeling agitated as I wanted to use my time more efficiently. The food tasted really good after it arrived.
We made it down the mountain as we listened to Pat Metheny’s “Letter From Home” and Yanni Live. As we made it to I-10 West, I put in “Moving Pictures” by Rush, and “Tom Sawyer” invited us to speed up into the fast lane…
We made it home, and managed to unload the car into the garage, and re-load it with the surfing gear in less than 20 minutes. We made it to Doheny State Beach in another 20.
It was sunny when we got to the beach. We put on our wet suits right outside the car, and started walking towards the water. On the way, we saw a police woman writing up a parking ticket. We asked her if she’d be willing to take our picture, which ended up being our first picture at the beach.
The waves were not very big; maybe 2 to 3 feet on the face, but most weren’t breaking until pretty close to shore. Our goal was to catch a few waves before the dark ominous clouds that were behind us would catch up to us (waves are pretty hard to catch with those conditions). Alex was telling me how disappointed he was feeling at the wave conditions, and that he didn’t think that we were going to be able to catch any waves. I told him: “I bet you $5 that I’ll catch a wave”. He looked at me and smiled as he thought of the $5 he had lost to me at Black Jack the night before. (Alex had dealt me an Ace and a Queen unannounced as I was trying to read a book. I had seized the moment to “teach” him something about gambling; sort of a “Kairos” moment. He mentioned that $5 he lost several times the following day).
Then, just a few seconds later, a bit of a swell appeared a couple hundred feet away – it looked good to me, so I encouraged Alex to start paddling and so did I. And, surprise! We both caught the wave, and I managed to take a picture of Alex as he was standing up on his board. I was ecstatic, elated and giddy -> feeling “stoked” as our adventure was complete.
Cowabunga!
We stayed out a little longer. We were drifting south towards some rocks near shore, so I suggested that we paddle in for a little rest. We were both pretty tired from all of the effort; we rested a bit and decided to head home just as the sky began to turn dark. By the time that we got to the car, droplets of water were falling on us.
Alex set up a towel covering for the backseat of my convertible as the rain started to come down. On the way home, we listened to the “Spirit of Radio”, “Free Will” and “Jacob’s Ladder” by Rush. The “freedom of music” matched our current mood. Our journey was complete. I am alive!